Underlying Pigment

Color Theory Review • Lesson Three*

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This is a short and sweet lesson about Underlying Pigment, but it is the most important one of your career as a colorist.

The moment you use a formula that is strong enough to reach the cortex, you will need to accommodate for the Underlying Pigment of the hair. But first you need to accurately identify it, and unfortunately color lines each have their own Underlying Pigment charts that are usually difficult to remember. That's why this lesson is valuable, I have a very simple way to memorize underlying pigment at each level that will guarantee formulation success. The best part is: it’s easy!

Besides learning how to control or enhance underlying pigment, we are also going to go over two fun and common things:

  • Why hair color fades brassy (and how to avoid that)
  • Why a lightened level 10 is still yellow

Here’s what you’ll learn:

  • Why the Cortex is important
  • The Two Types of Melanin
  • What "Brassy" Really Means
  • The Level System
  • How I think about Underlying Pigment
  • Two Formulation Examples

After purchasing this lesson, my biggest piece of advice is to watch the video first, and then watch it again while answering the workbook questions. It's important that you actually understand your answers so you can remember this information while working behind the chair.

This Single Lesson Purchase Includes 1 video lesson (12 minutes) and 1 workbook.

*If you’re interested in purchasing all three lessons in Color Theory Review Course, please click here.

Your Instructor


15+ year beauty industry veteran, specializing in advanced color techniques behind the chair, training new stylists in color theory, and the creator of this on-demand post-beauty school education platform. To read her blog, click here.

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