Breaking Down Base Breaks

Advanced Blonding • Lesson Three*

Base Breaks can be a blonde’s best friend. They are an excellent technique for hairstylists that really care about the finished result of the overall color palette, and a base break will ensure there is brightness everywhere with full-on tonal refinement. It’s a modern, elevated blonde look, particularly with foils.

A base break is designed to lift a client's natural base color 1 to 1.5 levels, usually after highlighting them, and will accomplish the following things:

  • Soften Highlights
  • Blend a color palette together
  • Give more brightness than just highlighting alone
  • Reduce contrast between base color and highlights
  • Grow in less obvious than a traditional single process

I want to keep this lesson as realistic as possible for you. The two mixing ratios I use for my base breaks, everyday in the salon, are just with regular permanent color. I don’t use anything that is specifically formulated to be a base break. Permanent color makes an excellent base break, as kong as the mixing ratio is correct.

What you’ll Learn:

  • Who the Ideal Base Break Client Is
  • Who You Should Never Do a Base Break On
  • Why A Base Break Formula Is Unique
  • Base Breaking Formulation Guidelines
  • Two Possible Mixing Ratios
  • A Step By Step At-the-Chair Application
  • Real Client Scenarios and Their Custom Formulations
  • Why Hair Texture Matters So Much

There are really no wrong answer for a base break formula. There are “less right answers” and “more right answers”, but the differences between formulas are usually very subtle. You just need to stay true to the color wheel.

Also included in this lesson are:

  • A Base Break Cheat Sheet with basic suggestions for first time base breaks: including all your available options to formulate a base break for a level 8,7,or 6 client regardless of the color line you use.
  • And 4 real client scenarios with pictures and formulations, exactly like you see everyday behind the chair.

After purchasing this lesson, my biggest piece of advice is to watch the video first, and then watch it again while answering the workbook questions. It's important that you actually understand your answers so you can remember this information while working behind the chair.

This Single Lesson Purchase Includes 1 video lesson (28 minutes) and 1 workbook.

*If you’re interested in purchasing all three lessons in Advanced Blonding Course, please click here.

Your Instructor


15+ year beauty industry veteran, specializing in advanced color techniques behind the chair, training new stylists in color theory, and the creator of this on-demand post-beauty school education platform. To read her blog, click here.

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