The Advanced Formulation Course Bundle is perfect for a hair stylist that already has a strong foundation in color theory and now needs help with formulation. By the end of it, you should have the knowledge formulate thoughtfully, and When you are thoughtful about your formulations, you can give clients exactly what they need. Which can give you the advantage of highest client retention.
The Advanced Formulation Three Lesson Bundle includes:
- Lesson One: Gray Blending Formulation, 1 video lesson (29 minutes) and 1 workbook
- Lesson Two: Gray Lifting Formulation, 1 video lesson (35 minutes) and 1 workbook
- Lesson Three: Color Corrections Arsenal, 1 video lesson (45 minutes) and 1 workbook
- Bonus: Salon Exercises
Lesson One: Gray Blending
However, there is a big factor about accommodating for Gray Hair that is often overlooked, and it’s about your tools: Are you formulating with a Pure Tone Color Line or a Balanced Color Line? Not knowing the type of color you are using can lead to mistakes like a color formula “browning out”, or coverage that is too sheer.
Plus we need to take it one step further to really understand the types of coverage you’ll get with different strengths of color and different strengths of developer, so you can quickly make the right decisions and formulate to get perfect coverage while still giving your client the maintenance they can handle.
Since most gray formulation clients tend to be single process clients, we’ll also discuss how to turn something as basic as a single process into a Signature Service, and how you can do that without adding much additional time (but you can charge them more money!). This is the good stuff: Any time you spend a little extra effort to turn something basic into something incredible, you will become irreplaceable in your client’s eyes.
Here’s what you’ll learn:
- How to Classify Gray Hair
- Replacing Missing Pigment with "N"
- Pure Tone Color Lines vs Balanced Color Lines
- The 4 Types of Gray Coverage
- My Signature Single Process Application
- How to make an "N" from scratch
Lesson Two: Gray Lifting Formulation
Lifting gray hair can be a bit more challenging than just depositing on gray hair.
This lesson will enforce the basics and remind you to always assess the natural level before lifting hair so you can accommodate for the melanin, regardless of the amount of gray, and make sure you choose the right developer for what you need your formula to do.
Remember, "Gray Lifting" doesn't just mean "Gray Blonding", this isn’t just a lesson about blondes, this is a lesson about everyone with gray that wants to be a lighter level.
Here’s what you’ll learn:
- Developer Choices
- Why 100% White Hair is like Platinum Blonde Hair's Resistant Stepsister
- How Highlift Tint is a Great Option for Gray Coverage
- The Real Difference Between "Salt & Pepper"
- Natural Contributing Pigment Review
We will also discuss why it’s important to to adhere to Minimum Processing Times for your formula especially when lifting gray hair since there are two actions at play:
- The time it takes to lift natural pigment out
- The time it takes to develop enough artificial pigment load to accommodate for the missing pigment
This lesson is full of real examples and formulations, plus some variables including clients that have a pure white hairline but salt and pepper everywhere else, and we will dissect a highlift tint formula to discuss when and why it is a viable option for lifting gray hair.
Lesson Three: Color Correction Arsenal
It’s a terrible feeling to think you “can’t” fix something because you don’t have the right product.
Although the color lines we use try to make things easy for us by providing a product for every scenario, it's good to understand the more complex issues that your clients will commonly come in with so you can be educated enough to alter your formulas easily with even the most limited materials available.
Here’s what you’ll learn:
- How to use Pure Tone Mix-In's
- Lightener and Minerals DO NOT MIX
- Fixing an "over-toning" situation
- Prepping for color corrections
- How to Removing Color Build-up
- The Protocol for Filling Hair
- Simple Adjustments for Resistant Hair
This lesson is all about the “when and why’s” of color corrections. We will discuss the three ways to make a "Decolorizing Shampoo", we will discuss the three ways to make permanent color stronger when it isn’t strong enough, and most importantly:
We will discuss why Minerals and Lightener Do Not Mix! It’s entirely possible that you will have a situation on your hands one day, like this:
- Boiling Foil Packets
- Strong Sulfur Smell
- Lightener turning to liquid when it touches hair
I’m going to tell you how to avoid this horrific chemical reaction by being able to spot the clients with the signs of heavy minerals or metal buildup.
My biggest piece of advice is to watch the lessons first, then watch them again while answering the workbook questions. It's important that you actually understand your answers so you can remember these lessons while working behind the chair.
*Single Lessons are available for purchase if you just need a refresher.
15+ year beauty industry veteran, specializing in advanced color techniques behind the chair, training new stylists in color theory, and the creator of this on-demand post-beauty school education platform. To read her blog, click here.
StartVIDEO LECTURE • Advanced Formulation Lesson One • Gray Blending Formulation (28:59)
StartVIDEO LECTURE • Advanced Formulation Lesson Two • Gray Lifting Formulation (35:06)
StartVIDEO LECTURE • Advanced Formulation Lesson Three • Color Correction Arsenal (44:43)
StartWORKBOOK • Advanced Formulation
StartSALON EXERCISES • Advanced Formulation