Gray Lifting Formulation

Advanced Formulation • Lesson Two*

Lifting gray hair can be a bit more challenging than just depositing on gray hair. I've even seen very seasoned colorists freeze a little when they are lifting “Salt and Pepper” gray hair because they have a moment of doubt and ask themselves: “Do I formulate for the ‘Salt’ or the ‘Pepper’"?

This lesson will enforce the basics and remind you to always assess the natural level before lifting hair so you can accommodate for the melanin, regardless of the amount of gray, and make sure you choose the right developer for what you need your formula to do.

Remember, "Gray Lifting" doesn't just mean "Gray Blonding", this isn’t just a lesson about blondes, this is a lesson about everyone with gray that wants to be a lighter level.

Here’s what you’ll learn:

  • The Real Difference Between "Salt & Pepper"
  • Natural Contributing Pigment Review
  • Developer Choices
  • Why 100% White Hair is like Platinum Blonde Hair's Resistant Stepsister
  • How Highlift Tint is a Great Option for Gray Coverage

We will also discuss why it’s important to to adhere to “Minimum processing times” for your formula especially when lifting gray hair since there are two actions at play:

  • The time it takes to lift natural pigment out
  • The time it takes to develop enough artificial pigment load to accommodate for the missing pigment

This lesson is full of real examples and formulations, plus some variables including clients that have a pure white hairline but salt and pepper everywhere else, and we will dissect a highlift tint formula to discuss when and why it is a viable option for lifting gray hair.

After purchasing this lesson, my biggest piece of advice is to watch the video first, and then watch it again while answering the workbook questions. It's important that you actually understand your answers so you can remember this information while working behind the chair.

This Single Lesson Purchase Includes 1 video lesson (35 minutes) and 1 workbook.

*If you’re interested in purchasing all three lessons in Advanced Formulation Course, please click here.

Your Instructor


15+ year beauty industry veteran, specializing in advanced color techniques behind the chair, training new stylists in color theory, and the creator of this on-demand post-beauty school education platform. To read her blog, click here.

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