Gray Blending Formulation

Advanced Formulation • Lesson One*

When we formulate color for our clients, we are oftentimes faced with accommodating for their gray hair. Although that presents different formulation considerations than pigmented hair, it’s very straightforward and predictable once you know how to do it.

However, there is a big factor that is often overlooked, and it’s about your tools:

Are you formulating with a Pure Tone Color Line or a Balanced Color Line? Not knowing the type of color you are using can lead to mistakes like a color formula “browning out”, or coverage that is too sheer. Plus we need to take it one step further to really understand the types of coverage you’ll get with different strengths of color and different strengths of developer, so you can quickly make the right decisions and formulate to get perfect coverage while still giving your client the maintenance they can handle.

Since most gray formulation clients tend to be single process clients, we’ll also discuss how to turn something as basic as a single process into a signature service, and how you can do that without adding much additional time (but you can charge them more money!). This is the good stuff: Any time you spend a little extra effort to turn something basic into something incredible, you will become irreplaceable in your client’s eyes.

Here’s what you’ll learn:

  • How to Classify Gray Hair
  • Replacing Missing Pigment with "N"
  • Pure Tone Color Lines vs Balanced Color Lines
  • The 4 Types of Gray Coverage
  • My Signature Single Process Application
  • How to make an "N" from scratch

There’s also a fun bonus towards the end that will show you how to use your color wheel to make an "N" from scratch, which means you can learn how to formulate for gray hair even if you don’t have an “N” to use. Plus, the workbook includes head sheets of my Single Process Application, as well as blank head sheets for your to create your own.

After purchasing this lesson, my biggest piece of advice is to watch the video first, and then watch it again while answering the workbook questions. It's important that you actually understand your answers so you can remember this information while working behind the chair.

This Single Lesson Purchase Includes 1 video lesson (29 minutes) and 1 workbook.

*If you’re interested in purchasing all three lessons in Advanced Formulation Course, please click here.

Your Instructor


15+ year beauty industry veteran, specializing in advanced color techniques behind the chair, training new stylists in color theory, and the creator of this on-demand post-beauty school education platform. To read her blog, click here.

Course Curriculum

Frequently Asked Questions

When does the course start and finish?
The course starts now and never ends! It is a completely self-paced online course - you decide when you start and when you finish.
How long do I have access to the course?
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What if I am unhappy with the course?
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